Made in Britain: Yarmouth Oilskins’ Designer, Sophie Miller
Sophie Miller is a designer with over 20 years of industry experience working worldwide for brands such as Marks and Spencer, Adidas and more. Now based in her native hometown near Great Yarmouth, Sophie plays a key role in the development of both Yarmouth Oilskins and Spry Workwear as a design consultant.
Three years ago, Sophie approached the Yarmouth Oilskins’ factory team pitching to resurrect the brand. The addition of her vast industry knowledge, plethora of skills and fondness for workwear have paid dividends to not only the Yarmouth Oilskins brand, but to the factory, too. By opening up the factory floor to form new collaborations and external manufacturing contracts she has helped drive the business forward whilst allowing other independent brands to make the most of the Made in Britain label too. Sophie is a true pioneer of British manufacturing.
Interview by Sarah HellenSome Good Ideas: Firstly, can you briefly tell our readers about your role within Yarmouth Oilskins?
Sophie Miller: My role is Designer for Yarmouth Oilskins. I grew up 5 miles north of Great Yarmouth and have had a 20 year career designing clothes all over the world for some amazing brands. I’ve covered all types of products, working in Italy for Max Mara Group, M&S in London and designing sportswear for Adidas. I consider myself most fortunate though to be part of the small team behind Yarmouth Oilskins. The brand ignites my passion on so many levels, it’s from my home town which is very much a part of my family history, the workwear aesthetic has always been a passion of mine and I’m part of a very small, driven team and between us, we have rebuilt the brand and rescued the factory from closure.
Some Good Ideas: Have you always had a penchant for workwear? What was it that first caught your interest?
SM: Despite working in fashion for so long, I’ve always believed in having my own style, something that lasts a lifetime, not transient with every season. I believe in carefully buying well-made pieces that you will still love in years to come. I’ve always trawled charity shops for 1950s cashmere and well-loved workwear. The beauty of quality made pieces that were designed to last is what appeals to me. These are exactly the same qualities that embody workwear.
“There’s something very special about ‘companion pieces’. Pieces that are with you for the journey.”
Items that travel with you and take on the patina of your everyday life. I have a khaki herringbone chore jacket bought in the mid 90s, which I still wear today. It’s got a mark from a leaky pen in the corner of one pocket, and the cuffs are beginning to fray, evidence that it’s been so many places with me, but those battle scars add to its appeal.
I now own a Yarmouth Oilskins Smock, from our first production run after we re-launched the brand. I’ve worn it for at least for one or two days a week for the last three years and is now developing an amazing well-loved patina.
SGI: Is there a piece of workwear in the Yarmouth Stores archive you refer to most often?
SM: Our ‘Hero Piece’ has to be the Driver’s Jacket. It offers an alternative to the classic chore jacket style and it seems to have captured people’s imagination as a very wearable piece. We use the original pattern that has remained unchanged for over 50 years.
Each design element has been developed out of practicality. Originally designed for Bus Drivers, it’s cut slightly shorter in the waist because the driver would spend most of his time sitting at the wheel. The back of the jacket has two deep stitched pleats to allow for extra movement while leaning forward turning the big horizontal steering wheel. These pleats are stitched so the crease remains looking ‘smart’. The pockets are really special, there are two top buttoning pockets for notepads etc. and below those is an angled pocket, faced in hardwearing herringbone tape.
“These details born out of necessity epitomise workwear.”
SGI: What can we, as modern-day consumers, learn from very traditional workwear garments?
SM: It’s that concept of buying beautifully crafted pieces, which you’ll never tire of, which will last you a lifetime. Made well, and built to last, traditional workwear can be the foundation blocks of your wardrobe onto which you can layer accessories, knitwear, lightweight pieces and jersey to compete the look. ‘Worn in, not worn out’!
SGI: Which companies and/or designers do you feel are the pioneers of the ‘Made in Britain’?
SM: There are a growing band of brands flying the flag for Made in Britain. It’s not easy, and there’s a great deal of educating the customer, so they understand the financial pressures which competing with cheaper overseas manufacturers brings, and that they also appreciate the many benefits of supporting British manufacturing. We love the work that Monty & Co are doing with children’s wear, and Spry Workwear for womenswear: their brand ethos is very similar to our own.
SGI: What do you see in the future of British Manufacturing?
SM: It’s a very real worry that Britain might lose the skills that once made it a great manufacturing nation. Our history as one of the great ‘Makers’ of the world is by no means secure, but thankfully the consumer is becoming more inquisitive, wanting to learn about the provenance of their clothing, and asking ‘who made my clothes’ more frequently.
I believe through education, being transparent about our costings, offering something that’s not available elsewhere, and of course with great heritage, we can try to secure the future of British manufacturing. Once lost, it’s very hard to regain these unique skills, so valuing them and shouting evangelically about ‘Made in Britain’ wherever possible has to help.
