Federica Bertolini

On her life in the country

Photo by Jamie Brogan

We first met Federica when she was general manager at The Fife Arms and were instantly drawn to her infectious personality and insane local knowledge of Scotland’s flora and fauna (which, by the way, has earnt her her other name of Italian Ghillie).

We could wax lyrical about Federica until we are blue in the face but instead, we’ll let her talk about her favourite month in the countryside.

I came to Scotland with my husband and a car full of our belongings in 1997. We ‘escaped’ Italy shortly after our wedding, fearing that we were going to end up living a predictable, small town life. Scotland sounded like the most romantic place ever, so we headed there. 

We settled in Edinburgh, and after a short stint at McDonald’s I surprised myself by getting a reception job at the famous Balmoral Hotel on Princes Street. And just like that, I’d found my passion: hotels. Next, I found my way back to Italy, but this time to Rome, to work in the industry there and then after that, I was at the Tresanton Hotel in Cornwall where I stayed for 11 years. 

The Fife Arms

Scotland called me back though, and I was excited to be a part of the re-opening team at the Fife Arms in Braemar where I stayed for some years. Now, I’m self-employed and I work for multiple hospitality venues, a small private castle and a heritage museum. I also lead my own foraging and history walks and tours with private clients. Being Italian, I am a little obsessed with food so I usually bring a picnic too!

My favourite month is June and, as an Italian living in Scotland, no words can quite describe the relief that the month brings; long days, warmer temperatures, nature bursting into life, the promise of a whole summer ahead, an abundance of vegetables in season, the list goes on…

I did find winters hard when I first moved back to Scotland 6 years ago but admired how nature seems to explode in the spring, almost racing to display its colours, flowers and foliage and aware that the time to show off will be short. This year, with a cold rainy May, the explosion came at the start of June and it was fast!

Photo by Alexander Schimmeck

My greatest passion as a forager is mushrooms and two years ago porcini made an appearance at the start of June. Just when I thought June couldn’t get any better! They’ve already been spotted this year and I have started to explore Glen Tanar, where I now live, to find new spots. One thing I’ve learnt is that foraging takes time and it’s not just about walking with purpose, but you’ve also got to be prepared not to find anything. It took me years to find my porcini spots in the Upper Royal Deeside and I now have to start again at Glen Tanar. This means a lot of fruitless walks but also a great burst of happiness when you finally find a prized mushroom.

Illustration by Lee John Phillips

I really cannot bring myself to eat courgette, peppers, tomatoes and cucumbers in the winter so I spend months eating slaw, celeriac and far too many potatoes. Finally, large salads and roasted vegetables can be on the table every day whilst they are at their best. In the garden, fresh herbs are available to add to every dish and the first salad leaves can be picked.

Photo by Dan Gold

But foraging has taught me that there is a season for everything and whilst you can (and should) gorge while things are in abundance, you then have to let nature rest and take a break so that it can properly return next year in all its splendour. With this in mind, I don’t find winters as hard anymore but just let them pass as a necessary time for all the bounty to return all over again.